Spring/Summer 2018 RTW collections were definitely prét à porter. Sometimes, fashion has a sense of being elusive and exclusive, but I think this season was a lot about embracing mundaneness and timelessness.
No. 21
Show notes: Alessandro Dell’Acqua made the collection a mix of carnal and sporty – reminiscent of the Spring ’97 show. Themed dresses with lingerie details.
Gucci
Show notes: Alessandro Michele – strobe lights, misty, replica antiquities, “hypnotism”, carnivorous. Elton John vibes – glam rock stage clothes.
Burberry
Show notes: Christopher Bailey – “there we are” – a retrospective show, embracing the centuries’ socio-economic troubles, from Brexit to nationalism and obscurity. More honest, less polished, cool, and streetwise.
Christopher Kane
Show notes: “Perfect house wife with a cleaning habit” – suburban eroticism (not vulgar though). Sexual and ingeniously silly undergarments.
Off-White
Show notes: Virgil Abloh – Princess Diana, “the people’s princess”, literal not figurative, Diana with a modern chic twist and in everyday wear, Diana in all aspects; tulle.
Christian Dior
Show notes: Maria Grazia Chiuri: feminist; no high heals – modern young woman: “low, block-heeled Mary Janes or black mesh knee-boots”. Elevated social awareness (in my opinion – incoherent trendy pieces).
Chanel
Show notes: Karl Lagerfeld – “The molecules from the water, when you breathe them in, it’s very healthy for you!”; endorphin effect of outdoor scenes and high-end fashion; 60s and 80s Paris momentum.
